Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2


These clever dicks knows how to do it

Post Tue May 01, 2012 6:41 pm

Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Had to change the front pads on the Gixer.... So thought whilst i was there i would do a "How to" on it - and also Rainey suggested i might do it !!!

Be aware the front brakes are the ONLY brakes that stop you - and should be treated with respect - care should be taken with all steps - as there is a very real danger of doing something that CAN make your brakes dangerous. Please apply common sense if using this how too, as usual - if you put copper slip in the wrong place i am not responsible. Sorry but have to get that out of the way. Please take care when doing anything to your brakes.

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The front Left Caliper as you sit on the bike..... Now i always prefer to remove the caliper and fit the pads that way, as you can see what the pistons are doing better, various books of lies will suggest doing it without removing the caliper..... I don't like this method as you cant see what state the pistons are in, and if they are sticking at all....

Remove the caliper and then using a bungee or other such implement that you can hang between the handlebars and the caliper - this so as not to stress the joints on your brake calipers and the brake hose, if you left the caliper to hang it is then left swinging with only the hose holding it. this weakens the joints and can cause leakage from the joints.

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Once you have the caliper of identify the "Pad Retaining bolt" this is usually the length of the caliper and in the case of a K2 - has an R pin on the end of it

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Remove the R pin... and unscrew the bolt

The pads will then come out.....

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This is what was left on the pads -


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This is the pistons in the position they were when the old pads came out.....

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You need to push the pistons back - because the new pads are thicker and with the pads in this position the caliper will NOT go back on - also this is a time to check the movement of the pistons, and make sure they are not siezed.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES DO THE FOLLOWING TO PUSH THE PISTONS BACK

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If you are going to use a screwdriver to press the pistons back - insert it between the pads and do it that way using the pads to apply EVEN pressure to both pistons. You can damage the piston doing it as above - these are the brakes that stop you, and the only ones that do stop you - DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO DAMAGE THE BRAKE PISTONS, use the old pads - it does not matter if you damage the old pad material as you are replacing them anyway (you can see where i have applied the screwdriver to the pad to push back the piston, as you can see it has bent the soft pad material - it will do the same to your piston.

Once you have pushed the pistons back it will look like this

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You can then check the functionality of the piston - by pressing the brake lever at this point - and apply RED - and ONLY red grease to the piston. (Red brake grease does not destroy the rubber seals behind the piston - DO NOT USE COPPER SLIP !!!!!) Obviously you will have to reset the pistons back to fit the new pads.

Take your new pads - one at a time and apply some copper slip to the back of the pad - DO NOT ALLOW THE COPPER SLIP TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE FRONT OF THE PAD (THE PAD MATERIAL) IF IT DOES THEN USE A DEGREASER TO REMOVE IT.

New pad -

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Smearing of "Copper Slip"

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Do this to both pads - and then you can fit them (the copper slip helps to hold the upper one in place)

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You can then rebuild the caliper, applying copper slip as you go.
Pad retaining bolt.

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Refit and replace - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN - 16NM for this pin, which is not much - i recommend tighten with fingers only then a torque wrench on the correct setting

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Then refit the R clip

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Replace the Caliper on the wheel, and then refit the caliper mounting bolts, also applying copper slip to the bolts

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Same bolt with copper slip


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Then again finger (only finger) tighten as this has a torque setting of 25NM which again is not much - this is the Left hand caliper - if you were sat on the bike only finger tightened

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DO NOT GUESS TORQUE SETTINGS - NO MECHANIC NO MATTER HOW EXPERIENCED CAN "GUESSTIMATE" IT CORRECTLY - USE A TORQUE WRENCH LIKE BELOW


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On my torque wrench it clicks, and pivots slightly when the setting has been reached, some are different.

You might think that is it, but no there is one more VERY VERY VERY important thing to do - you have pushed the pistons back remember..... you dont want to go barrelling into a corner and pull your brake lever on with out doing this step - BECAUSE YOU WILL NOT STOP - you need to pump the brakes until they feel firm - the first time you pull the lever it WILL go all the way back - right to the handlebars.

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You need to keep pumping the lever until it feels firm - once you have done this - then the pads are in contact with the disc again -

Spot the difference between the photo below and the one above - the lever does not come all the way back this time - the pads have moved against the discs.

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Then you can begin the process of bedding the pads in - this is the process of the pads settling into what ever grooves are on your disc - and gripping it fully when the brakes are applied.... I would recommend for about first 100 miles with new pads that you take it easy - do not hesitate to do an emergency stop if you need to - but be aware your pads may react differently if they are not bedded in yet.... feet out time kiddies - after about a 100 miles they will be bedded in fully and ready to stop you - as you hack into your favorite corner at 2000mph !!!

Enjoy be safe and if you get it wrong - it ain't my fault !!!!

Copper slip
A lubricant for VERY high temp areas -
Purchase something similar to this - a tin this size will last you YEARS !!
COPPER SLIP LINK

Red Grease - for brake pistons - does not penetrate and perish rubber seals again a tin this size will last you YEARS !!

RED GREASE LINK


Lenny
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 6:45 pm

Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Good guide! Loads left on the old pads.
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 6:49 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Next replace the brake oil mate!

Pads had a little left on them which is surpising
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 6:54 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

nice one.

b4 i come to pushing the pistons back in , i use a toothbrush and some brake cleaner and clean all the crud off the pistons first b4 they go back in.
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HOW CAN WE WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW NIGHT..
SAME BAT-TIME... SAME BAT-CHANNEL!!?

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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:02 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

good plan Blaggs....

Carly - Fluid change will be when i can afford to get a brake bleeder - August i think !!!

I thought the pads had plenty on them - though there was the odd noise from them - esp when pulled hard at low speed (like NOT pulling out cos the twat in a cage decided not to turn even though his indicator was on !!! - maybe something got in there mate ???

All good now - just gotta go easy for the first 100 miles - and i hope the weather changes, so i can use those tyres !!
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:06 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

you won't need a bleeder unless your changing hoses mate just keep feeding the new stuff through
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:08 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Carlos wrote:you won't need a bleeder unless your changing hoses mate just keep feeding the new stuff through


True.....but still might be August before i can afford the fluid - and yes i know how cheap it is - only had the pads thanks to Hruntlefoot - and a deal i did sabout 4 months ago.

Will be fitting his recon'd calipers then when i do the fluid - hence the need for a bleeder !!
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:11 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

LennyVFR800 wrote:
Carly - Fluid change will be when i can afford to get a brake bleeder - August i think !!!



spanner and plastic tube... come on man, keep it old skool with the bleeding :palm:
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=========

HOW CAN WE WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW NIGHT..
SAME BAT-TIME... SAME BAT-CHANNEL!!?

=========
It's Always Funny Until Someone Gets Hurt. Then It's Just Fuckin' Hilarious

Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:12 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

I know mate - just cant be arsed to make one - and cant afford fluid right now !!!
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:12 pm

Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Just stick a one way valve on a bit of hose and you have your bleeder :)
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:20 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

I thought you said you cleand the bike?!
The wheels look filthy........forks look like they need attention too...
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:25 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Armi wrote:I thought you said you cleand the bike?!
The wheels look filthy........forks look like they need attention too...


Oi Cheeky - did this BEFORE cleaning her !!!

Wheels do need a good going over though mate - and i know one of the forks has some pitting - will sort that eventually - not an issue for now.

Tried WD40 on the wheels - next is petrol

If that don't work - might save up and get em stripped back and redone in white
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:34 pm

Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Baby wipes are good for wheels!
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 7:54 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Will give that ago as well mate !!!

Communication sent from a Nexus 1 escaping and evading the Tyrell Corporation :sniper:
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Post Tue May 01, 2012 8:03 pm

Re: Changing Front Brake Pads on a K2

Rainey wrote:Baby wipes are good for wheels!


Sainsbury's do em'.....i think employees get a discount :whistle:
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